The Climbers’ Project

Antagonist Exercises for Injury Reduction

As a climbers you develop patterns of muscle dominance and stiffness through your core, shoulders and arms. These patterns of dominance can in some cases have a negative impact on flexibility, joint alignment, and joint stability. This can eventually lead to injuries in the shoulders, elbow, hands and nerve compression syndromes such as thoracic outlet. The simple practice of spending 15 to 20 minutes training a few key climbing antagonist after your climbing sessions can help you to climb longer and climb stronger with a more balance body.

Intrinsic Hand and Grip Strength Exercises for Rock Climbers With Pulley Injuries

Dominance in the extrinsic long finger flexors in the presence of weaknesses in the intrinsic muscles of the hand can be associated with flexor pulley overload and injury. These exercises can help to improve the load balance between these sets of muscles in the hand as you attempt to heal a pulley injury.

Shoulder Pain Exercises - Level I - Foundations

The Level I series of exercises were designed for climbers who have a history of shoulder pain and are looking to improve the balance of muscle length and muscle control around the shoulder complex. All climbers should start with the Level I series to learn the basic movements and principles applied in Level II and Level III. These are good exercises to perform prior to climbing. These exercises could be performed daily or every other day to allow for recovery from muscle soreness.

Level II - Progression

The Level II series of exercises are designed for climbers who have completed the Level I series for up to two weeks and are looking to prevent shoulder pain. These exercises are ideal for a person climbing without pain and who is looking to maintain a healthy balance of muscle length and control in the shoulder complex . These exercises can be done every other day to allow for muscle recovery.

Level III - Performance

The Level III series of exercises are designed for climbers who have completed the Level II series for up to 2 weeks and are looking to prevent shoulder pain. These exercises are ideal for a person climbing without pain and who is looking to maintain a healthy balance of muscle length and control in the shoulder complex. These exercises can be done every other day to allow for muscle recovery.